When, after tasting five or six different BelGioioso cheeses, I told master cheesemaker Gianni Toffolon that American Grana was my favorite, he hugged me. He’s emotional about the cheese he makes, and that’s understandable; Grana is remarkably good.
An 18-month aged parmesan, it lacks any of the crystals or unpleasant dry crunchiness that sometimes come with the breed; there’s no sour or chalky afterbite, either. By contrast, it has a mellow, complicated nuttiness with a clean, blossoming aftertaste that left me thinking about the cheese’s flavor well after it had finally faded.
Come to think of it, I could go for a little more right now.